Dive Watch Releases / Articles

2017-01-17

PANERAI Luminor Submersible 1950 BMG-TECH™ 3 Days AUTOMATIC 47MM PAM00692

Introducing PANERAI’s first ever BMG-TECH™ constructed Professional Diver, unveiled, today at SIHH 2017 as part of SIX new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic models – all powered by Panerai’s in-house 9010 caliber. Of the 6 new Submersibles –

one is in BRONZO Ref.PAM00671, released as part of the Special Editions collection, one is in ACCIAO (steel) Ref. PAM00682, one is in ORO ROSSO (rose gold) Ref. PAM00684, two are in TITANIO Ref. PAM01305 and Ref. PAM01389 which is also anti-magnetic resistant, and the last one is in a new a brand-new space-age material called BMG-TECH™ Ref. PAM00692.



Of the 6 new Luminor Submersibles 1950 3 Days Automatics – this has to be the stand out model – the Luminor Submersible 1950 BMG-TECH™ 3 Days Auto 47MM Ref. PAM00692
And that isn’t just for its stunning blue dial because as far as divers watches are concerned blue is definitely the new black or is that orange – anyway, it’s bang on trend.



The reason that this new Submersible will possibly make more than a few waves and have watch geeks reaching for the Kleenex is owing to its BMG-TECH™ case developed by Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee – it has an invisible but revolutionary innovation that has something to do with Zirconium (a clue taken from the caseback).



Actually the secret of this material lies not so much in its appearance – which is similar to that of Titanium only a darker grey in color but in its atomic structure, which provides a range of very useful qualities for divers watches: extreme resistance to wear, high strength and great lightness.



BMG-TECH™ is in fact harder and lighter than steel but what exactly is it? Okay you asked - it‘s a bulk metallic glass with a disordered atomic structure, obtained through a high-pressure injection process at a high temperature, followed by a cooling process lasting for only a few seconds, so that the atoms do not have enough time to become arranged in an ordered, regular structure - capisce?!



But WTF is Bulk Metallic Glass? I hear you ask! It is a material made from a special glass-like alloy consisting of Zirconium (told you!), Copper, Aluminum, Titanium and Nickel.
The alloy as mentioned above is subjected to a high-pressure injection process at a high temperature and then to a cooling process lasting for just a few seconds, so that the atoms do not have enough time to become arranged in an ordered, regular structure, as normally happens in crystals i.e. no time for crystallization to happen.



The revolutionary BMG-TECH™ material has been used for absolutely everything from the watch’s main case to all of its components such the bezel, case-back, crown and Panerai’s trademark crown-locking device. I have no idea on pricing but you might have to start saving your pennies, now!

PANERAI Luminor SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 Days Automatic ACCIAIO 42MM PAM00682

Introducing PANERAI’s latest Steel Professional Diver, unveiled, today at SIHH 2017 as part of SIX new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic models – all powered by Panerai’s in-house 9010 caliber. Of the 6 new Submersibles –

one is in BRONZO Ref.PAM00671, released as part of the Special Editions collection, this one is in ACCIAO (steel) Ref. PAM00682, one is in ORO ROSSO (rose gold) Ref. PAM00684, two are in TITANIO Ref. PAM01305 and Ref. PAM01389 which is also anti-magnetic resistant, and the last one is in a new a brand-new space-age material called BMG-TECH™ Ref. PAM00692.



This is the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Acciaio 42MM AKA PAM00682 which is Panerai’s first 42mm in diameter diver. Its Luminor 1950 Stainless steel case is fitted with a unidirectional rotational bezel for calculating dive-time; while the lever device protecting the winding crown ensures water-tightness of the case to 300 meters.



The black dial has applied index markers, the date at 3 o’clock and the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock. All the elements on the dial are clear, perfectly legible against the black background and the seconds hand is Panerai blue. The black rubber strap, closed by a trapezoid buckle made of the same material as the case, is both sporty and functional, and it co-ordinates perfectly with the appearance of the new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic watches.



It is powered by the P.9010 automatic caliber with a power reserve of three days, the time remaining being clearly visible through the sapphire crystal back and follow the classic Panerai Submersible design, with the Luminor 1950 case fitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel for calculating the time of immersion and the lever device protecting the winding crown.



The black dial has applied index markers, the date at 3 o’clock and the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock. All the elements on the dial are clear, perfectly legible against the black background and the seconds hand is Panerai blue. The black rubber strap, closed by a trapezoid buckle made of the same material as the case, is both sporty and functional, and it co-ordinates perfectly with the appearance of the new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic watches.

PANERAI Luminor SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 Days Automatic ORO ROSSO 42MM PAM00684

Introducing PANERAI’s first ever solid Rose Gold Professional Diver, unveiled, today at SIHH 2017 as part of SIX new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic models – all powered by Panerai’s in-house 9010 caliber.



Of the 6 new Submersibles – one is in BRONZO Ref.PAM00671, released as part of the Special Editions collection, one is in ACCIAO (steel) Ref. PAM00682, one is in ORO ROSSO (rose gold) Ref. PAM00684, two are in TITANIO Ref. PAM01305 and Ref. PAM01389 which is also anti-magnetic resistant, and the last one is in a new a brand-new space-age material called BMG-TECH™ Ref. PAM00692.



This is the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Oro Rosso 42MM AKA PAM00684; as its name suggests it boasts a solid Rose Gold case measuring 42mm in diameter. This is topped with a tough scratch-resistant matte black ceramic bezel. Water-resistant is limited to a depth of 100 meters (10 bar).



It is supplied with the P.9010 automatic caliber with a power reserve of three days, the time remaining being clearly visible through the Sapphire crystal back following the classic Panerai Submersible design, with the Luminor 1950 case fitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel for calculating the time of immersion and the lever device protecting the winding crown.



The black dial has applied index markers, the date at 3 o’clock and the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock. All the elements on the dial are clear, perfectly legible against the black background. The red gold model more sophisticated but with the same sports functionality, has a distinctive element which increases its strong character:

the rotating bezel has a matte black ceramic disc with stud markers which, in conjunction with the graduated scale, enable the time of immersion to be calculated. The red gold used by Panerai is an alloy which has a slightly higher percentage of copper than usual, giving the color a particular intensity, and a small amount of platinum which helps to prevent oxidation of the precious metal.

PANERAI Luminor SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 Days Automatic BRONZO 47MM PAM00671

Introducing PANERAI’s latest Bronze Professional Diver, unveiled, today at SIHH 2017 as part of SIX new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic models - all powered by Panerai’s in-house 9010 caliber.



Of the 6 new Submersibles – one is in BRONZO Ref.PAM00671, one is in ACCIAO (steel) Ref. PAM00682, one is in ORO ROSSO Ref. PAM00684, two are in TITANIO Ref. PAM01305 and Ref. PAM01389 which is also anti-magnetic resistant, and the last one is in a new a brand-new space-age material called BMG-TECH™ Ref. PAM00692.



This is the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo 47MM AKA PAM00671 - released as part of the 2017 Special Editions collection. The bronze used to make the 47mm in diameter case as well as the iconic bridge device protecting the winding crown is an alloy of copper and pure tin known as CuSn8, which is highly resistant to the corrosive action of sea water.



As well as being structurally very strong, this material preserves its warm original tones, while acquiring an agreeably worn look from the characteristic patina which forms over time. This patina is the result of the reaction of bronze with external agents and it has no effect on the intrinsic properties of the material, but it is a visual sign of the ageing process, making every example unique and different from the rest.



Also made of bronze is the rotating bezel with a graduated scale for calculating the time of immersion, connected to the case by a special system designed and patented by Officine Panerai. The Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo (PAM00671) is water-resistant to 30 bar (300 meters) and it is completed by a brown leather strap with sewing of a nautical character and a titanium buckle. It is a Special Edition limited to 1,000 units

PANERAI Luminor SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 Days AMAGNETIC Automatic TITANIO 47MM PAM01389

Introducing PANERAI’s latest Titanium Anti-Magnetic Professional Diver, unveiled, today at SIHH 2017 as part of SIX new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic models – all powered by Panerai’s in-house 9010 caliber. Of the 6 new Submersibles –

one is in BRONZO Ref.PAM00671, released as part of the Special Editions collection, one is in ACCIAO (steel) Ref. PAM00682, one is in ORO ROSSO (rose gold) Ref. PAM00684, two are in TITANIO Ref. PAM01305 and Ref. PAM01389 which is also anti-magnetic resistant, and the last one is in a new a brand-new space-age material called BMG-TECH™ Ref. PAM00692.



This is the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Amagnetic Automatic Titanio 47MM AKA PAM01389; beneath its dial is a special soft iron case forming a Faraday cage that protects and isolates the movement from the flow of magnetic fields.

This model guarantees a resistance to magnetic fields equal to 40,000 A/m (Ampère/metre), a limit more than eight times greater than the value specified by the international standards of the Normes de lndustrie Horlogère Suisse (NIHS 90-10).



In extreme conditions, and in everyday life, watches are often exposed to magnetic fields generated by electric charges and currents. Such magnetic fields can noticeably alter the rate of the watch, a possibility that is virtually non-existent in the new Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio.

Applied to the rotational Titanium bezel, inspired by that of the models made by Panerai for the Egyptian Navy in the 1950s, is a matt black ceramic inlay, on which the linear and dot-shaped Titanium markers are fixed. The bezel rotates only in an anti-clockwise direction, to prevent accidental shocks interfering with the measurement of dive-time.



The movement of this special Submersible is the P.9000, which offers a convenient system for regulating the hour hand that can be moved backwards and forwards in jumps of exactly one hour, correspondingly changing also the date display. Entirely designed and created at the Officine Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, the P.9000 is 13¾ lignes in diameter and has 28 jewels, a variable inertia balance and an Incabloc® anti-shock device.



The movement is characterized by the precision of its construction and the two barrels which are constantly charged by the oscillating weight in both directions, thus ensuring a 3-day power reserve.

PANERAI Luminor SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 Days TITANIO 47MM PAM01305

Introducing PANERAI’s newest Titanium Professional Diver, unveiled, today at SIHH 2017 as part of SIX new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic models – all powered by Panerai’s in-house 9010 caliber. Of the 6 new Submersibles –

one is in BRONZO Ref.PAM00671, released as part of the Special Editions collection, one is in ACCIAO (steel) Ref. PAM00682, one is in ORO ROSSO (rose gold) Ref. PAM00684, two are in TITANIO Ref. PAM01305 and Ref. PAM01389 which is also anti-magnetic resistant, and the last one is in a new a brand-new space-age material called BMG-TECH™ Ref. PAM00692.



This is the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Titanio 47MM AKA PAM01305, it is one of the most classic Panerai Submersibles but in this new version it is also one of its most modern interpretations. The whole case is made of Titanium – Panerai don’t mention what Grade of Titnium it is but Panerai don’t mess about so it’s likely to be Grade 5.



All the markings and hands on the black dial are white, apart from the Panerai blue small seconds hand at 9 o’clock. That’s because this time around Panerai have gone for BGW9 SuperLumiNova instead of the traditional fluorescent green, so as to provide an even clearer reference point and to avoid any possibility of confusion in calculating times of immersion. Water-resistance is 300 meters.



The large Sapphire crystal porthole in the back of the new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Titanio allows us the automatic P.9010 caliber to be admired. This has a power reserve of three days and the spring barrels are constantly wound by a bi-directional oscillating weight.



The movement has two other very useful functions: the mechanism for stopping the balance wheel when synchronizing the watch, and the device for changing the time quickly: the hour hand can be moved forwards or backwards in jumps of one hour, without interfering with the running of the watch. The watch is supplied with a strong, functional black rubber strap with a sporty look, closed by a Titanium buckle.

2017-01-16

DELMA Shell Star Automatic REVIEW

BACKGROUND Delma are one of the last few independent Swiss watch brands that are still in existence, today - they have a rich history spanning some 90 years to 1924 when the company was first established.



Delma’s first dedicated divers watch the Periscope from 1969 lead the way for watches like the vintage Shell Star from 1975, the brand's first professional divers watch - and even the über 3000 meter dive watch, the Santiago Blue Shark that helped the brand garner so much attention back in 2010.



Today the revival of models from the last century (yes, it feels strange even today saying that) is a growing trend in the watch industry. The Shell Star doesn't actually bare that much resemblance to its historic namesake but instead embodies the spirit of watches from its epoch.



DIAL For obvious reasons, the dial is the single most important feature of any watch - on a divers watch the same is true however it is not only time as in - hours, minutes and seconds that are read but also elapsed dive-time.



This has become less important today for several reasons not least of which is the fact that Scuba divers today are equipped with dive computers coupled with the fact most Swiss dive watches are in fact first and foremost sold as luxury items.

But let's say that you were going to use your Shell Star as a backup up for your dive computer - how would it fair? A matte black background with brightly colored orange markers would be a great starting point, right?!



The Shell Star offers this as well as set of white sword hands and a sweeping orange seconds hand. Unfortunately (for me) the hour and minute hands are a little too similar - yes, the hour hand is a little shorter and wider but I would have preferred a far more glaring difference. If the same lovely bright orange had also been used for the minute hand this would have been all the better.

So what's the rest of the dial saying? There's a rehaut with orange hour tabs which gives the Shell Star a nice vintage feel, then there's a white seconds track, a minimal amount of text in white and the watch's water-resistance in orange. There's also a white dial which has been in framed in orange - on balance, it's good looking dial - clean and legible but as mentioned before the hands could be a little more distinguishable from one and other.



CASE This isn't quite the classic 70s cushion case - it's got an integrated crown guard - something you don't see too often on a cushion case, but it works. The crown guard gives the Shell Star perhaps a more robust appearance than it might otherwise have had.



CROWN I mentioned already the crown, above - this is a real triumph. Not only is the crown beautifully designed to offer excellent ergonomics but it is super solid. Time setting is an absolute breeze.



The case has been beautifully executed - the whole thing has a finely brushed finish with polished beveled edges. At 9 o’clock there's a ubiquitous Helium Escape Valve - on the opposite side of the case is a sturdy crown with a widely pronounced grip nestled in-between the crown guards.



BEZEL A 120-click type unidirectional rotational divers bezel sits on top of the Shell Star's brushed case. This has an anodized black aluminum inlay with a dive-time scale in silver. There's a triangular marker at 12 o’clock but unfortunately it lacks the required luminous pip of a professional diver - what a pity. The bezel has lovely smooth action - it feels light (in a good way) but more bezel height wouldn't go amiss.



CASEBACK The Shell Star is unusual in that it is divers watch with an exhibition caseback. Usually when a Sapphire crystal is fitted to the back of a watch it is given a lower level of water-resistance - not in the case of the Shell Star - it's water-resistance has not been compromised. This caseback is secured via 4x hex-screws. There's the typical engraving around the perimeter.



MOVEMENT That caseback affords a view of the Shell Star's engine room - where a Swiss made ETA 2824-2 with 25 jewels, a beat-rate of 28,000 alt/h and a power reserve of 46 hours can be seen powering the watch with a custom gold-gilt Delma rotor.



LUME The Shell Star's hands and dial markers have been applied with Swiss C3 SuperLumiNova. The lume on the hands is pretty decent - however, I think the hour markers could have definitely benefited from another application or two. The hands hold their lume pretty well but the dial markers are quite faint.



Another dive watch with no lume on the bezel’s 12 hour marker - what's the world coming to? I told you that Swiss divers are first and foremost luxury items - thankfully Delma does luxury very well - I just would have appreciated a tad more utility.



BRACELET This has always been an area where Delma excels - I remember how impressed I was by the Blue Shark’s bracelet and clasp - Delma have once again supplied a top quality bracelet and clasp.

The bracelet is a three-link type bracelet with polished center links. The links are designed so that the tops are rounded giving a 3D effect while the undersides are flat so as to sit nice and comfortably on your wrist.



CLASP The Shell Star's clasp is just gorgeous - a beautiful satin brushed finish with an engraved Delma logo running across its middle and two push-buttons on either side unfortunately it doesn't have a proper divers extension.



On the WRIST So how does the Shell Star feel on the wrist? It's dimension include a 44mm x 12.8mm case with a total weight of 225g on its bracelet. The watch sits nicely on the wrist - it's a solid diver, but it can be worn with a shirt cuff without any issue - it's still a bit of tank - wimps be warned ;)



PRICE The Shell Star is priced 1295CHF - actually this is pretty excellent value for money. We're talking boutique money here (not pre-order money) ! The finishing of the watch is immaculate, Delma are an historical Swiss brand with heritage. They aren't necessarily a household name but offer an authentic Swiss divers watch with a timeless style that will look great for years and years.


©OceanicTime

OVERALL The Shell Star is dive watch with an unmistakable vintage style that is hard not to fall in love with. It's of a such a solid build (much more so than you’d expect from a humble cushion case) and is brimming with features.

Sure, there were one or two points that didn't quite make the grade as a professional diver but these were soon outshone by standout features such as its stunning exhibition caseback with gold-gilt movement, below - the retro styling and the stunning bracelet and clasp. Follow the link embedded, below for more info.